The introduction of container grown fruit trees and shrubs and the availability of dwarf varieties of apple, pear and cherry have meant that every gardener can now successfully grow most fruits in their own back gardens. Not all fruit is easy to grow and careful consideration should be given to the types and varieties suitable for your own location and conditions before making a final decision.

Buying Fruit Trees

Always buy your fruit trees from a reputable supplier. If you are confident in pruning then buy a one year old maiden whip. This has no laterals so will be cheap but you will need to train it yourself and it will be about three years before it produces a successful tree. Two and three year old trees have a basic framework to work with but will cost you more. Avoid buying trees older than four years as they can be hard to establish.

Bare rooted trees will have to be planted in the autumn. When buying you are looking for a tree with good strong, evenly spaced branches without open buds. The main stem should be straight and the union strong and free from cracks. Roots should be well developed and spreading out in all directions. Remove any suckers growing from the rootstock.

Container grown trees can be planted at any time. Growth should be strong and free of pests or disease. The main stem should be straight and the union strong and free from cracks. Roots should not be growing through the base or side of the pot and the surface of the soil should be clear of weeds and roots.

Planting Fruit Trees

Never plant a fruit tree where the same type has been planted previously. Bare rooted trees should be planted between early November and late March but ensure that the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.

Dig the site a month before planting to aerate the topsoil and break up the subsoil. Remove weeds and add plenty of organic matter if the soil is particularly sandy or heavy.

If your tree is not to be planted immediately then keep it in it's packaging in a frost-free shed. Make up a planting mixture of one part top soil, one part compost and three handfuls of bone meal prior to planting.

Bare Rooted Trees

When ready to plant plunge the roots in a bucket of water for two hours and cut back any damaged or long roots to around 12ins. Fork over the bottom of the hole and form a small mound on which to place the roots. Insert a stake straight down to at least 12ins below the bottom of the planting hole and to the side of the prevailing wind. The stake should be about 3ins from the stem when the tree is planted. Dig a hole which is wide enough for the roots to spread out evenly and deep enough to keep the root union well above ground level. When planted the soil should reach to the old soil mark on the stem. Add a small amount of planting mixture and shake the plant to allow the mixture to get between the roots. Add more mixture and firm well around the roots without pressing too hard. Continue filling the hole leaving a mound around the stem and a shallow ring around the edge of the soil to help retain water. Fix a tie near the top of the tree and loosen it as the stem thickens.

Container Grown Trees

When ready to plant water the container thoroughly. Dig a planting hole large enough and deep enough to hold the soil ball plus 3-4ins of planting mixture. The top of the soil ball should be 1in below the soil surface after planting. Add 3-4ins of planting mixture into the base of the hole. Insert the tree into the hole and carefully cut off the container. Cut away any roots which may be circling the ball. Fill in around the sides of the plant with planting mixture and firm down with your hands. Leave a shallow basin at the surface of the soil to help retain water. Insert a stake into the soil on the side away from the prevailing wind at a 45 degree angle. Fix a tie and adjust as the stem thickens.

Aftercare for Fruit Trees

Once planted water your tree thoroughly and keep well watered until established. In the spring add a good layer of mulch around the tree. Spray the leaves during warm weather and remove all blossoms in the first spring. Check stake ties every year and loosen if necessary.

Buying Soft Fruit Shrubs

The basics of buying soft fruit are the same as for any fruit tree (see above). However, you must be particularly careful not to buy virus-infected stock, always go for certified stock when possible. There is a Certification Scheme for Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackcurrants, some Gooseberries and Red Currents. These plants have been inspected and passed by the Ministry of Agriculture as free from pests and diseases and are true to type.

Planting Soft Fruit Shrubs

Ideally grow your soft fruit in full sun away from strong winds. Most soils will do except those which are particularly sandy or poorly drained, also avoid sites under trees. Enrich all soils with well-rotted manure or compost before planting and feed each year after planting. Keep the site free of weeds. The basic planting rules are the same as for tree fruit (see above).

Aftercare for Soft Fruit Shrubs

Once planted water your soft fruit thoroughly and keep well watered until established. Add a 2 inch layer of mulch around each plant, avoiding the stems, and refresh after feeding each spring. Add a spring dressing of high-potash liquid fertiliser each year to ensure good crops that year and good growth for the following year. When fruits start to swell use a foliar feed.